It was a pleasure to melt. The sky was blue and gin-clear at the Dallas Farmers Market, and Rich Rogers of Scardello Artisan Cheese tiled a baguette with salami rounds. A half-wheel of raclette ...

Caseins help give cheese that wonderful, creamy, stretchy texture when melted. “We take the casein gene from a cow and we put it into a yeast,” Ryvkin said.